Like any South American city, Santiago is exceptionally noisy, but unlike many cities in South America, there is no undercurrent of threat. A nice lady on the bus, showed me pictures of her kids, explained where to go, and even drew me a map. I saw a lot of couples hugging and kissing in the parks on the drive to the hotel in Santiago. Not unusual in itself, but these were not teenagers, several were clearly middle aged couples.
According to the guidebook, the reward of climbing Santa Lucia in the middle of town is a marvelous view. It’s true, it is a marvelous view, but it’s a fucking ugly city. I could hear the traffic through the haze of smog and just barely make out the mountains in the distance.
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